Well, the plan to take the Alaska Ferry to Skagway was scuttled the morning of due to a landslide that closed the road out Skagway to the Alaska Highway. Soooo…..back up the Haines Highway we went, stopping for the night in Whitehorse, YT. We were able to get some errands done as well as visit Woodcutters Blanket, a brewery that was closed on our previous pass. We ended up having dinner and the food/beer was excellent! We walked around after dinner and happened upon Gather Cafe & Taphouse, a combination of cafe/restaurant/glass blowing studio operated by a husband/wife team. Great selection of craft beer and the food looked awesome!
We continued through the Yukon into British Columbia, spending one night along the Cassiar Highway before arriving in Smithers, BC. I took note of Smithers back in May as a town I wanted to check out. We visited Smithers Brewing Co and Bulkley Valley Brewery. Two breweries with completely different vibes but with great beer. I’m just really happy to be getting a 16 ounce pour at a 28% discount to the USD. There was a farmers market the next morning and we enjoyed talking with some locals as well as a helping of fresh bannock.
We hiked the Twin Falls/Glacier Gulch Trail before moving on. Very vertical, overgrown and a nasty scree field were our rewards.
We continued on to Prince George, BC for a Costco resupply as well as a visit to Deadfall Brewing Co. I’d probably pass on this one next time.
After spending the night on the river in Prince George, we continued south on the Cariboo Highway. We made an unscheduled stop in Quesnel, BC as Barkerville Brewing Co was opening soon and I was feeling a bit parched.
Great beer and an awesome beer garden!
We visited a couple of waterfall trails going south, including one with very interesting basalt columns as well as tons of wild raspberry bushes.
We did see one bear while eating raspberries, but he didn’t have a problem with us.
We spent the night in Williams Lake, BC (a rodeo town) after visiting Fox Mountain Brewing Co. Great beer and even greater scenery!
Continuing south, we almost had a routing disaster as my navigator (not the computer) suggested an alternate route to save some kilometres. It was all great until it turned into a single lane 14% grade climb on an active logging road. The backside wasn’t much better as the down climbs were muddy and slick. The rear end of the van started sliding out a couple of times and had to use the 4WD. We made it out without having to camp there and the navigator has been allowed to continue the trip, albeit on probation. We spent the night at Lillooet Brewing Co in Lillooet, BC overlooking the Fraser River. Great beer and views! According to the owner, the tourism driver for the town is ice climbing!
We stopped in Whistler, BC, but like most major ski resort towns, it’s a major pain in the ass to park and get around. We elected to move a little further down the road to Whistler Brewing Co to plan our next move. We hiked the nearby Whistler Train Wreck and Millar Creek Trail. Beautiful trail with remnants of a 70 year old train wreck lying about in one section.
We camped for the night near the trailhead and it was here that a vanlifing milestone was finally achieved. We received a knock at 8 am from “Constable” John, who explained that camping within the city limits was illegal. He even gave us a Certificate of Achievement to cherish forever!
He was extremely nice and even offered to show us some legal camping spots if we were planning to stay a while. We also visited some of the sites form the 2010 Winter Olympics.
Moving toward Squamish, BC, we hiked the Four Lakes Trail. Nice easy walk around Alice Lake Provincial Park.
Post hike, we visited Backcountry Brewing as well as A-Frame Brewing for some rehydration. Great beer at both locations.
We continued on to Vancouver, BC after grilling steaks at a roadside park. As an aside, Highway 99 from its junction with the Cariboo Highway all the way to Vancouver is absolutely stunning. I highly recommend making the trip. After perusing several brewery options in North Vancouver, we settled on North Point Brewing Co. Great beer and patio with a very distinct neighborhood joint vibe. Ended up camping right where we parked (for the brewery) with no issues. We walked around the Lower Lonsdale area of N. Vancouver the next day. Great neighborhood on the waterfront with a lot to see and do.
I needed to replace the marine breaker for the van’s hot water heater, so after buying the part and making the repair, we headed for Ron Andrews Community Recreation Centre for a workout and REAL SHOWERS. We also had dinner with our friends Tom & Sharon (who sit next to us at Tampa Bay Lightning games) at their home in Vancouver. It was a great visit!
After urban camping once again, we decided to head back to the US and North Cascades National Park. Along the way, the van missed its lurch right and was forced to u-turn and then lurch left to Birdsview Brewing. Really good hazy IPA and awesome food! Unfortunately the park was somewhat restricted due to wildfire activity, but we were able to get several hikes in and even snagged an unclaimed site from one of the park campgrounds.
With heat and wildfire considerations, we decided to head for the coast. We made a stop in South Bend, WA at Willapa Brewing Co. We were hoping to stay here as they are a Harvest Host but, alas, no room at the inn. Great beer and a nice beer garden on the river, though! We continued on to Seaview, WA to check out some possible campsites as well as North Jetty Brewing. Great beer, but camping looked sketchy, so we ended up along the mouth of the Columbia River for the night.
We crossed over to Astoria, OR the next morning and visited Lewis and Clark National Historic Park. Having read extensively about the expedition, I found it quite interesting. Moving south, we visited Ecola State Park and hiked the Clatsop Loop Trail From Indian Beach. Stunning views!
We later moved on to the Tillamook Creamery. Quite a tourist destination! We did a self guided tour complete with cheese samples. Don’t pass on the ice cream as it’s quite good! With all these snacks making me thirsty, we dropped in at Pelican Brewery. Impressive facility, less than impressive beer. In Oregon, official highway rest stops allow for up to a 12 hour stay making the one on the southside of Tillamook a perfect campsite.
We hike the Lower Cascade Head Trail the next morning. Absolutely gorgeous!
We moved on to Beachcrest Brewing Co (get the Mayan Mole Stout) and then had dinner at The Horn Public House & Brewery. Salmon Fish n Chips was great!
We visited the Devils Punchbowl at low tide and had a great time climbing around a looking at the tidepools.
We continued south to Newport, OR and paid our respects to Rogue Brewers on The Bay. Great beer and we left with a treasure trove of beer to go. We parked out on the jetty and hiked around the beach area for a bit.
Also paid a visit to the sea lions!
We moved on to Cape Perpetua and camped oceanfront once again before doing some amazing hikes the next day. The Saint Perpetua and Giant Spruce Trail led first to a 500+ year old spruce tree and then up to a lookout are with amazing views.
The Devils Churn was really cool….
…..as was Thor’s Well…..
……and the Spouting Horn.
Oh, and there were several whales a few hundred yards off the whole time we were there.
Needless to say, we are quite taken with the Oregon coast. It has definitely moved into summer home contention.
We moved on to Reedsport, OR and visited Two Shy Brewing. Great (flavor combinations) beer, great bartender and great conversation with fellow travelers. I’m finishing this post in the library across the street and heading back today.
The trip is starting to wind down a bit. We will probably continue down the coast into Northern California before heading for home.
Stay tuned!